Heading south you will encounter Kritsa village. It is ten kilometres
outside Agios Nikolaos and is famous mainly because the renowned
ancient city of Lato was built near it. Before you enter the village,
if you are coming from Ages Nikolaos, you will see the Byzantine
church of Panagia ( natural Mary of Kera), a three-aisled church
with 14th and 15 th century masterpieces of religious art. The
church's central aisle is dedicated to the natural Mary, the northern
aisle to Agios (Saint) Antonios and the southern aisle to Agia
Anna. Cypress trees, which create a solemn, religious landscape,
surround the church; it is open daily from 8 a.m. to 3 p.m., and
you will have to pay a small entrance fee. Leave the church behind
you and climb uphill until you come to the leading village at the
foot of Mt Kastello. The village is full of life in the summer,
as its permanent residents, not to mention holidaymakers, exceed
2,500 people. Walk through the picturesque streets and admire the
traditional houses with their courtyards full of flowers. If you
sit in one of Kritsa's small cafes, you will have an excellent
view of Mirabello bay. The village is famous for its hand-woven
textiles, knitting, and embroidery and weaving, practised by the
local "chryssocheres" ('golden-fingered' housewives)
who spread their wares out in the streets to be admired. If you
happen to be in Kritsa on August 15th, you will be able to attend
imaginative cultural events, climaxing in the reproduction of a
Cretan wedding organised by the Cultural Association of Kritsa.
In Kroustas village, a few kilometres south of Kritsa, you must
visit Stavrakaki's Taverna, with its delicious traditional Cretan
dishes and unique homemade pasta.
Two kilometres NE of Kritsa you will come to the archaeological
site of the ancient city Lato. To be precise, the place-name was
Lato Etera (Other Late), because Lato pros Kamara was the seaport
at the current location of Agios Nikolaos. The city existed in
the first millennium BC and was probably established by the Dorians,
as Late is the Doric version of Lito, mother of the gods Apollo
and Artemis. The two cities (pros Kamara and Etera Late) had a
common administration and currency, with coins depicting a female
deity, Artemis or Ilitheia on one side, and Ermis and the city's
name on the other. Naturally, the location where the war-tribe
of the Dorians chose to build their city was not selected by accident.
The location has a panoramic view, as you will be able to ascertain
yourselves. At the entrance to the settlement, you will pass the
Pyli (Gate), a testimony of the Dorians' choices in the construction
of settlements and fortifications. Across the corridor to your
left, you will see two rooms that were used as defence towers,
with workshops opposite them. A water-tank that experts believe
was used by a dyer was also
found there. Walking along the main street you will come to the
open-air Agora, a pentagonal space sport ween two hills on the plateau
at the end of the uphill road. At the south end, there are remains
of tiers and a dais, and an open-air temple, dedicated to an unknown
god. Many statuettes were found inside it. In front of the temple,
you will see a cistern. A Stoa was found at the western end of
the Agora, which must also have been used for public gatherings.
North of the Agora and to your left you will see the remains of
the Prytanio (Dean's office). The central square section must have
been an altar, and those participating in the discussion must have
sat around it. There were two towers on either side, protecting
it and giving it added status. The first room (south) is the Symposium
hall, where foreign envoys were entertained, and where the city's
leaders would take their meals. The usual altar was located in
the middle of the room. The room to the left must have been a warehouse.
The remains of the ancient theatre can be seen just before the
Prytanio.