Anogia Mylopotamou, famous throughout Greece, is Zoniana's neighbouring town. However, the two do not share an exactly friendly relationship, as they recently refused to be joined into a single municipality. The signpost for the town is again almost fun, what is egible, looking more like a sieve because of the numerous bullet-holes.
Pay no attention to this, and continue on your way to Anogia. The town takes its name from the ancient Greek words ano (avc,)) + gea (haia), meaning a high location. It is built at the foot of Mount Psiloritis, and is currently a"kefalochori" (leading village), with around 2,500 permanent residents.
It boasts of a centuries-old history, and a leading role in the nation's struggle for liberation. On August 15th, 1944, Anogia was completely destroyed by the German troops that invaded the area, despite the fierce resistance of the locals, in retaliation for the historically important abduction of German general Von Kraippe, the execution of the Geni Gave garrison commander and the Damasta sabotage, in all of which the people of Anogia participated actively. The Germans' orders stated that the village be flattened out and every male Anogian executed... Thus, Anogia was effectively re-built from the ruins left behind by the invaders. This explains the somewhat diverse architecture that you will come across as you walk around the village.
The village is built on the slope of the mountain, 710-790 m above sea level, in scaled terrace formations. As you enter the village coming from Axos, you will find Perachori, a neighbourhood in the village dominated by the church of Panagia ( natural Mary). Then you will ascend to Armi, the most central point, with the church of Ai-Giannis, the town Hall and a large square used for cultural events. Further down you will find Meintani neighbourhood and Meintani Square, where you should stop and taste the delicious home-made ice cream and "galaktompoureko" (cream pie), made by the locals themselves using goat's milk. You will be impressed by the fresh, delicious taste. You can also order soft drinks made by a local company, or enjoy your first raki with "mezedes" (snacks) served in the cafes. Further along is the
Metochi (monastery dependency), the church ofAgios Dimitrios and the Nikos Xilouris theatre.Recently, the "Yakinthia", a series of culturalevents dedicated to the memory of SaintYakinthos, which is celebrated on June 3rd, areorganised every summer. The events are variedin content and form, as they include anything fromopen scientific discussions and literary symposia,to shadow theatre and "mantinada" (rhymingverse) evenings. Usually, famous artists fromAthens are also invited. If you decide to attendany of these events, be sure that the starry sky,the organisation, and the location of the stoneamphitheatre will make your choiceworthwhile; just be sure you take somethingwarm to wear with you. Don't forget - youare on Mount Psiloritis, after all. At theYakinthia you will have the opportunityto meet famous artists who come fromAnogia, such as Psarantonis,Loudovikos ton Anogion,Vassilis Skoulas, and others. Thebeloved in all of Greece andwonderful artist Nikos Xilouris,who made his birthplace famous y singing its songs, also came from
Anogia. In the village square, Meintani, you will find Nikos Xilouris' family home. His sister actually owns a small cafe there, and on its walls you will see photographs and personal items belonging to the famous singer, whose voice gave rhythm to the difficult years of the junta, and who interpreted the traditional "rizitika" songs of Crete in the most convincing way.
Spirits will probably be high in the groups of locals, with jokes, songs and impressive stories going back and forth among them. Smile at them, and be sure that very soon you will be offered a drink and made a member of their warm and friendly "parea" (company). The Anogians are famous for the warmth and cordiality they express once you get past their initial apparent toughness and their suspiciousness towards "perasarides" - foreigners. You will meet men dressed in the traditional Cretan costume of a sariki (headscarf), black shirt, culottes, and boots. Some of them even place a Cretan knife in their belts, a symbol of manhood and bravery.
These characters, the personification of Cretan "leventia" (pride and manliness), with their wild looks, heavy footsteps and thick moustaches, will remain etched in your memory. Most of them are very skilful in the composition of improvised mantinada verses; they might even make one up for you if you join their company! The local women weave beautiful works of art on their looms, white lace using tiny knitting needles, and embroidery, woollen jumpers, which are voluptuously spread out in front of the houses to attract your attention. No doubt you will be tempted to buy one of these traditional masterpieces, which will decorate your home with the nchness and splendour of folk art, and will always remind you of your holiday in Crete and your visit to this unusual place. Besides the multitude of folk art products on show, in Livadi square you will also find many restaurants where you can enjoy a meal sitting outdoors. Don't neglect to taste the dishes cooked in the area's tavernas, using local meat. Order "ofto" or boiled meat, apaki (smoked meat), baked potatoes, spaghetti with anthotyro cream cheese, cakes (rusks with olive
oil, cheese and tomato), yoghurt and omelette (or "sfouggato" as the locals call it) and of course plenty of red wine. You will be pleasantly surprised by the wonderful taste of the food and the generous quantities in which it is served. Raki is the best drink to aid digestion. For dessert, ask for "sarikopites" with honey and "pitankia" with sweet myzithra cream cheese. If the chef insists that you try one of the local specialties, don't decline: it will
definitely be something delicious.
Finally, don't forget to visit the small museum maintained by Mr Gryllos in the village, with works of art made by him and his father mainly wooden statuettes and paintings with themes taken from country life, history and nature.
If the atmosphere of the place wins you over, you will have no difficulty in finding somewhere to stay, if you ask along the main street, near Meintani Square.
From Anogia you can organise an unforgettable climb up Mount Psiloritis to the Nida plateau, where you can see the Ideon Andro cave, 29 kilometres above the village. On the way out of the village towards Heraklion, you will come to a crossroads. Follow the road to the right, which is sign-posted. At 1,400 metres you will see the Nida plateau spreading out before your eyes, with its vivid flora and preserved fauna inviting you to explore. On the way up you will also encounter arched stone huts, the "mitata", where the area's shepherds spend their winters, tending to their flocks. If you're curious, you can pause on your way and ask to be shown the interior of a mitato. If one of the shepherds is at home, he will surely greet you warmly and treat you to any delicacy available at the time. The landscape is beautiful at any time of year. In winter the plateau is covered with snow, and chains are required for a safe trip by car. You can enjoy a snowfight or slide down the slopes. In spring and summer you will become inebriated by the aromas of thyme, sage and dittany, the humid earth, various herbs and brushwood. The trees laden down with all sorts of fruit invite you to take a rest under their dense foliage. Don't be surprised if you see woodcocks, eagles, hawks and other rare birds as you walk along.
Many species of wild animals thought to be extinct still survive in the craggy mountains of Crete. Hedgehogs, weasels and rabbits will often appear out of nowhere, so drive carefully to avoid crushing them under your wheels.
Timios Stavros, the tallest peak of Ideon Andro, is 2,456 metres high, and worth a visit if you decide to climb the mountain.
Make sure you ask the climbing association for details of the best route to follow, and you will enjoy a spectacular view of unique natural beauty that you will definitely not forget..